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ASCENT OF POBEDA PEAK (7439 m)


DA - 2

Pobeda Peak is the most Northern seven-thousander peak of the Earth. Ascent of Pobeda Peak is compared with ascent of eight-thousander peak. The history of the peak discovery and conquering is full of mysteries and tragedies.

Day:
  1. Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to Lake Issyk-Kul (300 km), overnight in yurt camp on the lake shore, (LD).
  2. Transfer to "Mayda-Adyr" Base camp (200 km) located in the valley of Inylchek River (alt 2500 m), (BD).
  3. Helicopter flight to the high altitude Base Camp "Zvezdochka" (alt 4100 m), (BLD).
  4. Consultations on itinerary, preparation to ascent, (BLD).
  5. You are offered the safest route over the peak Western Pobeda (6918 m).
  6. Crossing Glacier "Zvezdochka" in south-western direction, set up Camp 1 (4400 m) on the left moraine.
  7. Climb to "Dikiy" pass (5200 m) by snow couloir, set up Camp 2. (It is possible to set up tents, but the best variant to dig a snow cave.).
  8. From Camp 2 ascent by western snow edge till the main rocky bulwark (5400 m), set up Camp 3 (digging a cave).
  9. Acclimatization. Good high-altitude acclimatization is very important element ensuring successful ascent. More physical activities such as fixing the cave are recommended this day. Also it is possible to go a little up along the route and go down to Camp 2.
  10. Early morning descent to "Zvezdochka" Glacier and then towards the Base Camp, (LD, Russian bath).
  11. Rest day, (BLD).
  12. Rest, preparation for ascent, (BLD).
  13. Ascent to Camp 2.
  14. Ascent to Camp 3.
  15. Climbing to the mark of 6800 m, Camp 4, overnight in the tents.
  16. Climbing to the peak of 6918 m, further by the ridge in the direction of the main peak till the group of rocks ("Obelisk"), set up Camp 5 (7100 m), overnight in tents.
  17. Summit the peak, descent to Camp 5.
  18. Descent to Camp 3.
  19. Descent to the Base Camp, (D, Russian bath).
  20. Reserve day in case of bad weather, (BLD).
  21. Helicopter flight to the base "Mayda-Adyr", transfer to Lake Issyk-Kul (300 km). Overnight in yurt camp on the lake shore, (BLD).
  22. Transfer to Bishkek, accommodation at a hotel, (BL).
  23. Transfer to the airport, departure.

For more detailed itineraries see Scheme of Peak and Article


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