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|Rated by Tripcook|
|Kyrgyz-British Joint Company Dostuck-Trekking LTD|
ASCENT OF LENIN PEAK (7134 m.)
DA - 3
Lenin Peak is one of the most popular seven thousander peak of the Earth. Its popularity is caused by its easy accessibility (transfer from Bishkek to the base camp is only two days) and relatively not complicated itinerary. With the 4 man tents already setup and the other hiking equipment ready, climbers can readily head climb Lenin. Many famous climbers began their mountain careers with summit of this peak.
1. Arrive in Bishkek, flight to Osh, transfer to hotel, accommodation, sightseeing tour in Osh.
2. Trip to the base-camp Achik-Tash(300 km), alt.-3600 m.
3. Preparation for a trip to the high-mountain zone.
4. You are offered a route from the north through Razdelnaya summit (6148 m). Traverse along Lenin Glacier (6 hours), pitch camp 1 (alt- 4200 m).
5. Climb by the snow slope to (the mark) 5200 m, pitch camp 2.
6. Climb Razdelnaya summit, pitch camp 3.
7. Descend to camp 1.
8. Return to base-camp.
9-10. Rest. Preparation for the ascent.
11-13. Ascent to camp 1-3.
14. Climb by the wide snow ridge to (the mark) 6700 m, pitch camp 4.
15. Ascent to the summit, descend to camp 4.
16. Descent to camp 1.
17. Return to base camp.
19. 1 spare day in case of bad weather.
20. Transfer to Osh, hotel accommodation.
21. Flight to Bishkek, hotel accommodation.
22. Return home.
Lenin Peak (originally called Mount Kaufmann) – a beautiful snow covered peak of Zaalay mountain ridge is located on the southern border of Kyrgyzstan. This is one of the most easily accessible and climbed seven-thousander in the world. Despite its accessibility the ascent of the peak can not be considered as an easy walk.
Itinerary starts in Bishkek from which you will take an hour flight to the ancient city of Osh. For the past two centuries Osh had been a starting point of all expeditions to the Pamir (the roof of the world, turk.). Upon arrival in Osh, you will be accommodated in a hotel and after some rest you will be offered a city-tour, which will include a trip up to Suleiman Gora (mountain) with a panoramic view of the city and unforgettable visit of the oriental bazaar (market)…
Next day in the early morning you will be driven by vehicle along the Pamir’s highway towards the Alay Valley. Very soon the highway turns into serpentine and before the Taldyk Pass you will be offered some rest and lunch in the roadside cafй. On a sunny day, it is possible to see Lenin Peak from the top of the pass. As we are approaching the Alay Valley, the road is coming down and accompanies a beautiful view of Zaalay Range and in a little while you will arrive in the base camp located on Achik-Tash Glade (open stone, turk.). During Soviet times there used a big international mountaineering camp on that very spot. Nowadays, several small tent camps are hidden in the surrounding hills and one of them will be your shelter for about 20 days.
After a couple of days of acclimatization to altitude and checking of the outfit, you are ready to make your first climb up the slopes of Lenin Peak. You will be transferred by a vehicle (20 minutes trip) to the Onion Glade, the beginning point of the route from which you will walk towards ABC camp. ABC camp consists of a number of tents where you can stay for a overnight, have meals and drinks (you have to pay for everything if it is not covered by your voucher). It is also possible to set your own temporary camp here. In the course of the following 5-6 days you will be climbing up to Camp 1 (4200 m) and Camp 2 (5200 m) and then return to the base camp. Now high-altitude acclimatization is completed. It is advised at this stage to use ABC camp only for a short-term period (1-2 nights maximum) and to stay in Camp 2 for two nights (to follow the above makes a very imported part of the high-altitude acclimatization and the organization of a well prepared top camp in future).
You will then spend several days in the base camp having rest and preparing for the peak conquering. Now you are ready to set off camp 2 and further – to camp 3 (6148 m). The area between Camp 2 and Camp 3 is a flat snow-covered slope with constantly blowing winds. To climb Camp 4 (6700 m) and the peak itself it is advanced to have but a little of baggage and start climbing not later than 9:00 a.m. to ensure you finish climbing and return to Camp 4 in the afternoon. Next day after climbing the peak you will be heading towards the base camp, where everyone is waiting to greet the conquerors and celebrate your success.
On the way back to Osh – one more last glance over Lenin Peak. You are filled with mixed feelings: sad because you have to leave what has made your life during the past 20 days, pride and happiness because your dream came true. After a short visit of Bishkek, you are on the way home – matured with “seven thousander” experience.